Ho Chi Minh City–the chaos that pulls you in
- Brigitta Kukely
- Feb 9
- 8 min read
This is my second time in Saigon, but for a completely different reason.In my next post, I’ll tell the story of what it was like to ride a motorbike across Vietnam for a month, from Saigon to Hanoi. This time, though, the journey across the country isn’t the focus — the wind is.
I came to Vietnam specifically to kitesurf, and Saigon is really just a gateway: a noisy, pulsating transition between the city and the sea. It feels strange to return without the urge to discover everything again, without being shocked by the traffic or surprised by the chaos. This time, it’s familiar. I know how to cross the street, where to eat, and when it’s worth hopping on a Grab bike.
Ho Chi Minh City – or, as most people still call it, Saigon – is not a city you ease into slowly. It hits you straight in the face. With noise, heat, exhaust fumes, honking, smells, and that strange feeling that everything is happening all at once. When I first arrived, I thought this chaos was unmanageable. Then, a few days later, I realized I had become part of it myself.
I was here for the first time in 2019, back when I spent a month riding a motorbike across Vietnam, all the way from Saigon to Hanoi.
First impressions of Saigon – too much, too fast, too loud
Saigon isn’t beautiful in the classical sense. There are no carefully composed streets; everything is tangled with cables, motorbikes are parked on the sidewalks, and crosswalks feel more like decoration than actual traffic tools. And yet, there’s something incredibly alive about it. As if the city has its own pulse.
The traffic is the first shock. Millions of motorbikes moving seemingly without rules, yet in perfect harmony. They honk — not out of anger, but as a form of communication. Here, the horn means: I’m here, I’m coming, don’t be scared.
Crossing the street on foot feels like an impossible mission at first. The trick is simple: walk slowly, at a steady pace. Don’t stop suddenly, don’t run. The motorbikes will go around you. Always.
A bit of history – why Saigon remains Saigon
Officially, the city is called Ho Chi Minh City, but most locals still refer to it as Saigon. The name dates back to the post–Vietnam War period, when the northern communist forces took over the southern capital. Here, the past isn’t an abstract concept — it’s present on every corner.
The War Remnants Museum, for example, is not an easy experience.
It’s brutally honest, raw, and deeply unsettling. It doesn’t try to soften the story or apologize. It shows what the war meant from the Vietnamese perspective. It’s the kind of place you leave more quietly than when you entered.
The crazy traffic — and why it’s brilliant: how to get around Saigon
After a few days, you realize that Saigon’s traffic isn’t chaotic, it’s organic. There are no aggressive drivers, no constant tension. Everyone adapts to everyone else. If you make a mistake, no one yells — they simply go around you.
The motorbike is king. But if you don’t want to ride yourself, there’s Grab — Vietnam’s solution to pretty much everything: motorbike taxis, cars, food delivery. It’s cheap, fast, and reliable.
Buses exist, but honestly… that’s not why you came here.
5 Backpacker-Friendly Hostels in Saigon – Budget Stays for Travelers on a Shoestring
🏡 1. Vy Da Backpackers Hostel — super cheap and central
4.2 • Hostel
A classic budget hostel right in the heart of the Backpacker District, close to Pham Ngu Lao and Bui Vien. Clean dorms, common areas, free Wi-Fi — ideal if you want to meet people and keep costs low.
Price: around $8 / night for a dorm bed (typical low-budget hostel price)
🛏️ 2. Long Hostel — friendly vibes and great reviews
4.7 • Hostel
A popular choice among backpackers, offering a relaxed and clean environment, also in the Phạm Ngũ Lão area. Excellent value for money and a very helpful staff.
Price: around $7 / night (budget hostel category)
🎉 3. City Backpackers Hostel — social atmosphere and activities
4.7 • Hostel
A modern, social hostel with spacious common areas and regularly organized events and tours. Slightly more expensive than the cheapest options, but more comfortable and very community-oriented.
Price: around $15 / night (average hostel price in Saigon)
🎒 4. Base Backpackers — a classic backpacker base
4.5 • Hostel
Central location, comfortable and clean dorms, shared spaces, and a smaller but steady social scene. Ideal if you’re staying longer or planning to rent a motorbike or book tours.
Price: around $19 / night (mid-range hostel price)
🌆 5. AOIINN Hostel — stylish yet affordable
4.6 • Hostel
A slightly more stylish hostel option with a modern feel, comfortable common areas, and good beds. A great balance between affordability and a pleasant atmosphere.
Price: around $13 / night (excellent value for money)
🧭 Hostel Tips for Saigon
Most hostels are located around Phạm Ngũ Lão / Bùi Viện, Saigon’s backpacker hub, packed with cheap eateries, bars, and travel agencies.
Dorm rooms are the cheapest option, but if you want a private room, expect to pay 2–3× more.
Prices vary by season and booking time — if you’re hunting for a cheap bed, booking ahead is worth it 🌍
Vietnamese Food — Best Eaten on the Street
Saigon is a food lover’s paradise. Pho for breakfast, bánh mì for lunch, and in the evening some kind of grilled miracle while sitting on a tiny plastic stool.
Street food here isn’t a compromise — it’s the default. A steaming bowl of soup for a dollar, fresh, flavorful, and deeply satisfying. And Vietnamese coffee is a story of its own: strong, with condensed milk, with ice — or even with egg.
Eating in Saigon is always about more than just filling up. For me, each of these places is a pause in the city’s noise — somewhere you can slow down, observe, and understand how the city lives through its flavors. You don’t have to eat everything at once. It’s enough to let Saigon guide you from one bowl of soup to the next.
Here are a few food recommendations:
1. Bánh Mì Huỳnh Hoa
If you only have room for one bánh mì in Saigon, make it this one. A brutally stuffed sandwich with a crispy baguette, pâté, meats, pickled vegetables — it doesn’t hold back. Tourist-heavy? Yes. Worth it? Absolutely.
2. Phở Hòa Pasteur
Classic pho, a constant flow of locals and travelers mixed together. Clean, deep flavors, no unnecessary extras. Best in the morning, when the whole city still seems to be thinking in soup.
3. Cục Gạch Quán
A restaurant set in an old Saigon house, showing a more refined side of Vietnamese cuisine. If you want to step out of the street chaos for a while, this is a perfect stop.
4. Ốc Đào
If you’re feeling adventurous: snails, clams, and seafood in every possible form. Loud, smoky, plastic chairs — which is exactly what makes it authentic. Best enjoyed with a beer.
5. The Lunch Lady
An iconic spot with no menu: you eat whatever the “Lunch Lady” is cooking that day. Different every day, always brilliant. Fast, cheap, unforgettable.
Sights – The Many Faces of Saigon
🌆 1. War Remnants Museum
A powerful and deeply moving museum that presents the history of the Vietnam War (known locally as the American War) from a Vietnamese perspective, through photographs, documents, and military equipment.
Entrance fee: around 40,000 VND (approx. $1.60 USD) per person
⛪ 2. Notre-Dame Cathedral Basilica of Saigon
One of the most beautiful buildings from the French colonial era, this cathedral stands out with its imposing façade and twin towers. Entry is free (as it is an active religious site), and it’s well worth photographing from the outside.
Entrance fee: free (exterior photography)
🏛️ 3. Reunification Palace (Independence Palace)
This modernist palace is a powerful symbol of Vietnamese reunification. In 1975, this is where the southern government fell, when tanks crashed through the gates. Visitors can explore the interior rooms as well as the rooftop helicopter landing pad.
Entrance fee: around 65,000 VND per person (approx. $2.50 USD)
🪜 4. Saigon Skydeck – Bitexco Financial Tower
If you’re craving a city panorama, this is the place to go. The Skydeck offers a 360° view of the entire city from the 49th floor.
Entrance fee: around 200,000 VND per person (approx. $7–9 USD)
🕳️ 5. Cu Chi Tunnels (half-day or full-day trip)
Located on the outskirts of Saigon, this isn’t a city-center attraction — but if you want a deeper understanding of Vietnam’s history, it’s well worth the trip. You can actually crawl through sections of the underground tunnels and get a glimpse into Viet Cong life during the war.
Entrance fee (on-site): around 110,000 VND per person (approx. $4.50 USD)Guided tours usually cost more.
Tip: Ben Thanh Market and Nguyễn Huệ Walking Street are free to visit and great places to soak up the city’s atmosphere.
Markets in Saigon – where everything is cheap, loud, and bargaining is mandatory
Markets in Saigon are more than just places to shop — they’re living stages. This is where real city life unfolds: shouting, laughter, sizzling oil, the smell of fresh herbs, and a thousand colors piled on top of each other. If you want to understand the city, go to the markets.
And one important rule right from the start: bargaining isn’t rude — it’s expected.
Ben Thanh Market – iconic but touristy
The most famous market in Saigon, and somehow every road seems to lead here. Clothes, souvenirs, knockoff goods, spices, street food — everything, all at once.
Prices here are almost always inflated, especially for tourists. Don’t hesitate to start your offer at half or even a third of the asking price. Smile, laugh, don’t take it too seriously — it’s a game. If you can’t agree, walk away. Very often, they’ll call you back.
Binh Tay Market – the locals’ market
If Ben Thanh feels like too much, Binh Tay Market is a great counterbalance. This one is much more local, with fewer tourists and more realistic prices. You can buy almost anything here: food, household items, clothes, and supplies for restaurants.
Bargaining still exists here, but it’s more subtle. Prices are lower to begin with, so there’s no need for a big fight.
Night markets – food, wandering, impulse buys
In the evening, Saigon shows a different face. Night markets are more about atmosphere than serious shopping: grilled meats, seafood, cold beer, T-shirts, small souvenirs.
You can bargain here too, but for smaller items it often doesn’t make sense to push too hard. It’s usually about a dollar or two — the experience matters more.
💵 How to bargain in Saigon
Never accept the first price
Smile and stay relaxed
Start around 50–60% of the asking price
If it doesn’t work, walk away
Don’t take it personally — it’s business, not conflict
And most importantly: when the price feels fair to you, don’t keep bargaining just on principle. A couple of dollars won’t change your trip, but it can matter to them.
Why Saigon’s markets are so lovable
Because they’re honest. Because they’re loud. Because they’re not sterile.
Here, you’re not just shopping — you’re participating.
In Saigon, markets aren’t background noise, they’re a heartbeat. And once you step into the bargaining dance, you realize: this, too, is the city’s language.
Why Saigon Gets Under Your Skin
Because it’s honest. Because it doesn’t try to please. Because it’s alive.Because if you let it, it changes you.
Saigon isn’t for everyone. But if it grabs you once, it doesn’t let go. And when, months later, you switch off your motorbike in Hanoi, you realize: this is where everything began.
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